Wednesday, July 15, 2009

America's Top Chefs

often have conversations with my colleagues about the importance of certification. These conversations are usually friendly, still, it is a point of contention, and someone always brings up Thomas Keller.I remember when a few years ago, I would invite one of my co-workers to our meetings and he would say, “I’m not going to hang out at the Chef’s Club for Men”. Proud of his jab, he would smirk and tell me to have a good time without him. I found the statement to be sort of ironic; if anyone may want to refer to the MCCA as “The Chef’s Club for Men”, it would likely be me, the only woman on the board, and one of the few female members.Underneath his remark was a cynical attitude about the issue of certification and its value to an individual in our industry. Lets face it; everyone is always looking at things from this perspective, “what’s in it for me?”

The other day, I was perusing the magazines at a local book store. One particular glossy jumped out from behind Chocolatier. It was called Desserts from America’s Top Chefs. Since my background is primarily pastry, I was curious to see who is considered one of “America’s Top Chefs” and what type of desserts they were making. It’s always good to keep up on the trends, right?I flipped through the pages until I stopped at a “recipe” from Paula Deen; Chocolate Peanut Butter Cupcakes. Clearly, up until this point, I didn’t Paula Deen was now considered one of “America’s Top Chefs”, so I read on in interest. What nugget of insight or expertise did she have that Joe Decker or Chris Northmore, or even Sherry Yard didn’t?The “recipe” was simple, since it only had two ingredients; brownie mix, and peanut butter chips. The “directions” instructed me, America’s Top-Chef-in-training, to follow the directions on the box and add the peanut butter chips.I was totally appalled.

Seeing Paula Deen’s great big southern smile beaming from the pages of this magazine, made me feel sick. She is now, to some who don’t know any better, considered one of “America’s Top Chefs”, whatever that means.To me, this is like taking Dr. McDreamy and putting his gorgeous face on the cover of the American Medical Journal. Sure, there is a slight difference. Dr. McDreamy is an actor, and Paula Deen has made a living running a “successful” restaurant, but I am only being partly facetious.

Two years of culinary school, another year of training with my mentor, and 10 years of experience in professional kitchens does not get you on the cover of Desserts from America’s Top Chefs, so is “chef” just a word in our lexicon with no real meaning?Compare Paula Deen to Thomas Keller, who also isn’t certified by the ACF (do I really have to write anything else in this paragraph than just that first statement). Thomas Keller is a culinary genius who kills his own rabbits out of respect for their life. Thomas Keller has an unwavering commitment to absolute excellence. I am guessing that he would not feel good about opening up a box of chemically treated brownie dust and tossing in some synthetic peanut butter chips, but that’s just a guess.

Even that short exercise in comparisons didn’t clear this murky dishwater, so the question is deeper still. Becoming a Chef, The Reach of a Chef, The Soul of a Chef, and countless other books are dedicated to answering the question; what does it mean to be a chef? I don’t actually think that question can be answered in this article.

While I staunchly support certification and view it to be a necessity to the overall success of our industry (especially since the advent of the Food Network, which was both a blessing and a curse), others heartily disagree.Let me be clear, I have not yet been certified. There are reasons (points/documentation), and excuses (time, even fear of failure), but I will say the time has come; it is my goal for 2009. I feel a responsibility to my mentors, craft, and professional community to be a part of a larger and regulated organization that sets the bar for what is expected in terms of basic ability, skill, and knowledge.

My evidence to support certification is based on the example about Paula Deen.I remember when being a chef was not necessarily considered a noble occupation. I remember when working in a professional kitchen made people wonder if you were a drug addict, alcoholic, ex-convict, or just simply not very bright.Now, that image is changing, and I would like to think it is because of the role certification plays in this drama we call the restaurant business. I would like to think it is because of the fine men and women who follow the Culinarian’s Code, sharing their sage knowledge with their apprentices, students, and employees.

I would like to think it is because of the Randy Smiths and countless other chefs in our own chapter who make this moniker a title with value.As we approach a new year, I am confident that many of us will be setting goals for ourselves and our employees. Why not start by renewing your certification, or tackling the challenge for the first time? Lets be a chapter with a record number of certified chefs and culinarians, setting the bar for excellence in our kitchens and industry in 2009 and many years to come.

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